Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
The honor for this historic city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
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